What is Victorian Fashion?
Victorian fashion comprises the various fashions and trends in British culture that emerged and developed in the United Kingdom and the British Empire throughout the Victorian era, roughly 1830s to 1900s. The period saw many changes in fashion, including changes in clothing, architecture, literature, and the decorative and visual arts.
Ladies' fashions
In
the 1860s, the skirts became flatter at the front
and projected out more behind the woman. Day dresses had wide pagoda sleeves
and high necklines with lace or tatted collars.
Evening dresses had low necklines and short sleeves, and were worn with short
gloves, fingerless lace or crocheted mitts.In the 1840s and 1850s,
women's gowns had wide puffed sleeves. Dresses were simple and pale, and
incorporated realistic flower trimming. Petticoats, corsets, and chemises were
worn under gowns. By the 1850s the number of petticoats was reduced to be
superseded by the crinoline, and the size of skirts expanded. Day dresses had a
solid bodice and
evening gowns had a very low neckline and were worn off the shoulder with
shawls.
In
the 1870s, un-corseted tea gowns were
introduced for informal entertaining at home and steadily grew in
popularity. Bustles were
used to replace the crinoline to hold the skirts up behind the woman, even for
"seaside dresses". The fad of hoop skirts had faded and women strived
for a slimmer style. The dresses were extremely tight around the corseted torso
and the waist and upper legs; Punch ran
many cartoons showing women who could neither sit nor climb stairs in their
tight dresses. The crinoline was replaced by the bustle in the rear. Small
hats were perched towards the front of the head, over the forehead. To
complement the small hat, women wore their hair in elaborate curls. Some women
wore hairpieces called "scalpettes" and "frizzettes" to add
to the volume of their hair.
In
the 1880s, riding habits had a matching jacket and
skirt (without a bustle), a high-collared shirt or chemisette, and a top hat with
a veil. Hunting costumes had draped ankle-length skirts worn with boots
or gaiters.
Clothing worn when out walking had a long jacket and skirt, worn with the
bustle, and a small hat or bonnet. Travelers wore long coats like dusters.
In
the 1890s, Women's wear in the last decade of the
Victorian era was characterised by high collars, held in place by collar stays,
and stiff steel boning in long line bodices. By this time, there were neither
crinolines nor bustles. Women opted for the tiny wasp waist instead.
The evolution of Women's dresses during Victorian Era:
Men's fashion
During the 1850s, men started wearing shirts with high upstanding or turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot with the pointed ends sticking out like "wings". The upper-class continued to wear top hats, and bowler hats were worn by the working class.During the 1840s, men wore tight-fitting, calf length frock coats and a waistcoat or vest. The vests were single- or double-breasted, with shawl or notched collars, and might be finished in double points at the lowered waist. For more formal occasions, a cutaway morning coat was worn with light trousers during the daytime, and a dark tail coat and trousers was worn in the evening. The shirts were made of linen or cotton with low collars, occasionally turned down, and were worn with wide cravats or neck ties. Trousers had fly fronts, and breeches were used for formal functions and when horseback riding. Men wore top hats, with wide brims in sunny weather.
In the 1860s, men started wearing wider neckties that were tied in a bow or looped into a loose knot and fastened with a stickpin. Frock coats were shortened to knee-length and were worn for business, while the mid-thigh length sack coat slowly displaced the frock coat for less-formal occasions. Top hats briefly became the very tall "stovepipe" shape, but a variety of other hat shapes were popular.
During the 1870s, three-piece suits grew in popularity along with patterned fabrics for shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand and, later, the Ascot ties. A narrow ribbon tie was an alternative for tropical climates, especially in the Americas. Both frock coats and sack coats became shorter. Flat straw boaters were worn when boating.
During the 1880s, formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a shirt with a winged collar. In mid-decade, the dinner jacket or tuxedo, was used in more relaxed formal occasions. The Norfolk jacket and tweed or woolen breeches were used for rugged outdoor pursuits such as shooting. Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter. Men's shoes had higher heels and a narrow toe.
Starting from the 1890s, the blazer was introduced, and was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities.
Throughout much of the Victorian era most men wore fairly short hair. This was often accompanied by various forms of facial hair including moustaches, side-burns, and full beards. A clean-shaven face did not come back into fashion until the end of the 1880s and early 1890s.
Evolution of Men's fashion during Victorian Era:
The different types of hat during Victorian Era:
Different types of Victorian Men:
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